I’ve been manually setting the bed per Richard’s direction; turn it all off, move bed to 0.01mm below nozzle (using a piece of paper), then turn back on, home X & Y, then print

Seems kludgey

My first attempts today kept popping off the bed after the first few layers. So, I used a blow-dryer to heat the bed up to 50C and restarted. As I type, the process is just past the half-way point. It looks like a gear, but it’s really ‘raggedy’, so I expect there is probably some fine-tuning that I need to do.
Problem is, I have no idea at this time what that would be.

If you drop a note to my email, I can send you a picture of the result. should be done in about 20 minutes or so. Also, if you prefer, we could continue the conversation there instead of cluttering up your blog.

- k -

You can compile G-code without setting temperature while preferring to set your own temperature to what you want through Pronterface. Doing this will allow printing to start immediately. Just pre-heat the nozzle before you start the print. Putting a check in the box at the top of the screen will activate the temperature graph so you can see where you are at before attempting to print.

If I remember correctly, Pronterface does not respond to other commands until printing actually starts. It’s not unusual to be waiting a long time for printing to start when pre-set temperatures are used in G-code. For those that are not used to it, could be lead to think there is an error.

You can do your own pre-print test by extruding some plastic from the nozzle to make sure it’s primed and ready to go. Do the axis home routine, and checking nozzle distance from bed after Z travel to zero.

My routine before printing is to home all axis, switch on the heated build platform and get the nozzle up to temperature. I give the glass bed a wipe with acetone and then when the nozzle is at temperature, I extrude some filament to get the nozzle up to pressure and the press the home key and finally the print key. I give the nozzle a couple of wipes while the axis moves in to position.

So, I wanted to give it a try and now, am just dejected. I downloaded a little reprap logo .stl file and ran it through slic3r. No errors, so thought i was good to go. I opened Pronterface and loaded the g-code file and clicked Print. I saw some stuff go by in the status window, and the heater goes up to temp, but nothing happens.

Not a twitch. If I pause the print and try to do anything else with the the interface, it just freezes up and Win says “not responding” and I have to close/restart it.

I’m at a loss for real now. Pronterface just keeps repeating the temperature reading
T:182.69 E:0 B:0.0
T:182.79 E:0 B:0.0
T:183.10 E:0 B:0.0
T:184.23 E:0 B:0.0

at the bottom, it says Hotend: 190.58 E:0 Bed:0.0 printing:0.25%| Line #19 of 7744 lines | Est: 15:48:2

The last number keeps incrementing which implies it’s stalled, but not even a hint why Been looking at it and searching the Internet for the last three hours. Getting absolutely nowhere. *sheesh*

Too frustrated to look at this stupid thing anymore.

- k -

I spent a lot of time studying the Ramps schematic before I was brave enough to connect the heated build platform I built.

I hope your calibration goes well.

I would try small manoeuvres first before attempting to home axis just to make sure the axis are going in the direction as expected. This will avoid unexpected crashes. If you need to flip round the stepper motor connector to change rotation direction, cut the power to the Sumpod 3d printer first.

Check out the pre-flight check on this wiki page before you start the calibration
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Pre-Flight_Check

Mark

Once you get to know the electronics a bit better, the firmware configuration files will begin to make more sense.

I’ve read your next post and see you’ve already solved the power issue.

Mark

I spent an hour or so reading posts on the reprap forum and something I read sparked an idea. I changed the block I had the 12v supply screwed into and it came to life. It was in the 11A input and should have been in 5A. Live and learn…

Now, I have the heater/control, motors and endstops working. Next to start on calibration. …but tomorrow…my brain hurts now.

- kel -

Using a version that is supposed to be Sumpod specific (written by “strohn”), it sees the thermistor, and when I click Heater: Set, the red LED – LED2 – comes on, but no heat. If I click Heater: Off, the LED goes off and I can switch it back and forth but that’s the only hint of life in this thing.

No heat, no motors, nothing.
So, I put my soldering iron against the heater, and Pronterface reports the increase in temperature. I put an external power supply on the heating element, and it heats up; and, again, Pronterface reports the changes.

I’ve tried Sprinter and a couple of other version of Marlin with no better results. I tried the RAMPS 1.4 test code I found on the reprap forum, and all it does is flash the red and green LEDs – LED1 and LED2. There is absolutely no life in the motors…not even a faint hum.

I am stumped.

- kel -

I was thinking that a Sumpod forum would be a better than just a thread, but I guess that will have to wait until more of us take the plunge.

I’ll be eager to hear your milling results. the CMC capability was one of the selling points for me. I’d like to do some simple engraving as well as PCB.
So, Good Luck with that.

If the Sumpod thread gets popular enough, a Sumpod forum may get created under Machine Variations on Reprap.org. I just wish the site was a bit more snappy though.

It will be good to get more Sumpod owners out in public to see what’s going on with their machines. It will be interesting know if people are using the Sumpod for anything other than just 3d printing. I’m going to attempt some PCB milling very soon, I’ve just got myself an engraving bit.

Mark