nanoDLP

The manual for my projector specifies the RS-232 commands I'd need to communicate with it. It's got on, off, lamp hours, a whole host of things really.

I cant make heads or tails out of it. Nothing I try works. Can anyone PLEASE help me?

The manual is here - http://www.projector-manual.com/manuals … k_D558.pdf

The serial stuff is the very last entry.

As for my set up, the RPi is hooked to the projector through a USB to RS-232 adapter. It's got a Prolific chip in it I believe, and NanoDLP recognizes it, and is set up to address it as /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Prolific_Technology_Inc._USB-Serial_Controller_D-if00-port0

If there's any other useful info I can provide I will. Anyone that can help me get this working would be my hero.

Shahin -

Is it possible to use the GPIO for RS-232 / serial control of the projector? I've got a USB FT232 board, but it would be way easier to just let the RPi handle that itself. I ask because my projector doesn't seem to like regular HDMI control

I completely rebuilt my printer with new parts, didn't change the design much, but did upgrade almost everything. The set up is now a Vivitek DH559 projector with modifications done to the spacing of the lenses, an Arduino Nano running GRBL, an EasyStepper 4.4, and a linear actuator axis thing I got off eBay. (The linear stage is actually pretty awesome, I think it was made for laboratory bio-tech stuff, so it's hella accurate.)

Anyway, figured I'd post some pictures of my best print to date, as well as the process for making my new print platform. It's worth noting that the print in these pictures is actually for a job, and will be used to cast a production quality piece for my customer.

I started with a piece of aluminum sheet, and scribed lines for where to cut and drill. I decided to go with a perforated platform to aid in resin settling and even coating.

I used a green Sharpie to add a bit of color, first on the OUTSIDE of the lines denoting cuts, and then directly on top of points to be drilled. This allowed me to line up the tip of the drill bit with the center of the marks and ensure accurate drilling before committing to a given placement.

I then used a drill press and jeweler's optics to precisely drill the perforations

Using a jeweler's saw, I rough cut the new build plate out of the sheet, following the lines I'd left. Then I used a file and calipers to true the edges. Here is the platform installed on the new downposts.

The downposts are threaded rod. They're held in place at both ends with sets of washers and nuts, this allows the platform to be leveled or canted or angled depending on user preference or wear and tear.

Here's a shot of the Vivitek and the top of the linear axis. You can see the placement of the platform as well as the big red endstop.

Here's a shot mid print cycle. The platform has just dipped to re-coat between layers.

Just to highlight the "built in a cave, with a pile of scraps" a la Tony Stark aspect of this thing, here's the completely exposed electronics package at the top of the printer. The object above the stepper is the Arduino on its perfboard housing. You can see the EasyStepper to the right of that. I split the board attaching the projector, and I wasn't about to rebuild the "chassis", so C-clamps were employed.

Here's a shot mid print, during an exposure. Aoyue soldering / reflow station to the left, 2 custom built jeweler's benches in the background. You can just barely see my vacuum investment table in the top right corner.

Here's another mid exposure shot. You can see the stepper and 100% precarious endstop wiring a bit better. Look carefully and you can pick out the capacitor on the endstop lines.

The job for my customer is a delicate French V-split set band that shadows her existing one. She requested a pair of them, to match her ring. You can see how well the print came out here, the fit is perfect. I'll cast the piece in 14kt white gold and set it with diamonds.

Here's the underside of the fit, the gap visible to the bottom left is caused by my inability to hold it steady and take a picture at the same time

The printer upgrades were a rush job, hence their slapdash appearance at the moment. I'll clean up the wiring in the coming few days, and add a shutter and serial adapter to talk to the projector. NanoDLP has functioned like a CHAMP, once I got it actually running. Been a fun journey so far though, and I welcome questions, comments, and suggestions.

Shahin -

It would be awesome if we could implement encoder support in the GPIO's for closed loop positioning or at the very least hardware based movement sync. Adding an encoder to a given axis isn't very hard at all, so adding the support for it in NanoDLP would be KILLER as far as reliability, repeatability, and software based tuning for better more consistent prints.

Does anyone here have any experience with 5 phase steppers?

I bought a linear actuator, because it had everything I needed for a new Z-axis, but wasn't counting on getting the motor along with it. The motor is a REALLY nice Vexta PK544-BA motor, with a built-in encoder. The axis itself is equally nice, come to think about it, and has integrated optical endstops and mounting points for hardware as well as to mount the axis itself to a larger device.

Anyway, this motor is ABSURDLY accurate, apparently, so I'd MUCH rather use it than a regular stepper. Does anyone have any idea how to make a driver for one of these? Or where to get one cheap? Or even where to get one that will interface with NanoDLP or GRBL?

Happy to post pictures for anyone who wants them.