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Author Topic: Almost there.
CSE27USF
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Post Almost there.
on: May 17, 2012, 17:32
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Im almost at the end of collecting all the parts I need and on the home stretch to building the drawing board.

So far the parts list is:
Shapeways Sprockets (same ones from the link on instructables)
Adafruit motor shield
Parallax limited rotation servo
Arduino Duem(ATMEGA-328)
4 Connector barrier strips for motor wiring
Adafruit Stepper Motors. 12V 350mA. 200 steps, 1.8 deg.
2 x 12v 1A power supplies for the project. Motorshield is variable from 3v to 12v, Arduino is 12v 1A non adjustable.

Just waiting on the beaded cord that I ordered from the UK
Found it here.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300413292480&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AMOTORS%3A1123

Should match the specifications from the Instructable. It is plastic, 4.5 mm ball size, and 8mm spacing between each ball.

Drawing Surface should be roughly 757mm(29.8031") in width by 880mm(34.6456") in height. Im using a max paper size of 457mm X 610mm. So the dimensions should be close to what I have calculated. Drawing surface will be constructed from either MDF or 1/2" plywood with framing to strengthen the design. 3/4" sanded plywood would be nice but it is pricey at roughly 47.00 for the dimensions I need to cover.
Hopefully it continues on as smoothly as it has been going. Only hiccup was in the software with me making an amateur move and leaving the serial monitor window open in the arduino. More to come soon! 😀

Image

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 18, 2012, 03:02
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Just out of curiousity do the pulleys appear to be really small compared to the shapeways and instructable walk through. I thought they were a bit small when I got them but they fit nice and I wouldn't imagine that pulley size would cause any adverse results if the motor speed were slightly altered.

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 18, 2012, 08:47
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That sounds like a quality, and comprehensive build, impressive! I was thinking your sprockets looks pretty dinky too, but aha, you have bigger motors than in the pics.

sn

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 20, 2012, 05:24
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Out of curiousity does it matter how the motors are plugged into the motor shield.Meaning while staring at the drawing surface does the right motor have to go into M1 and M2, and the left motor into M3 and M4 or vice versa? Before I permanently wire everything up to get final measurements I wanted to be sure.
A few pics of where im at.Motors need M3 hardware and there done for now. Just lacking the pulley cord...

Image
Image

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 20, 2012, 09:07
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Neat work! Yes, it does matter which motor goes where, as far as using the stock firmware is concerned anyway. If you don't mind editing the firmware then it makes no difference though.

The left-hand motor should go into M1 & M2.
The right-hand motor should go into M4 & M3.

But remember you don't need cord to be able to test that you've wired it up the right way - load the firmware and the use the controller to move the pen around, and check the motors are turning the right directions. If I'm wiring from scratch I normally get at least one of the motors reversed, so do a round of tests before you tighten everything up.

sn

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 20, 2012, 13:22
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Thanks. Im taking my time on measurements and setup to ensure quality.Im definitely planning on testing the wiring before I call it quits in that department and move on. Wiring on this project is far easier than anything else I've undertaken. I'll post more up tonight after my test on the running the motors again this time with both power supplies running. Any advice on a testing the motors and ensuring correct direction. Should it be as obvious as if I place the pen in the bottom center that the left motor should move clockwise and the right one counterclockwise to lower?

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 20, 2012, 20:47
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Cool, the adafruit shield makes it so simple - almost nothing to go wrong, ha! The L293Ds are pretty forgiving of disconnecting while live too.

Checking the direction is exactly as simple as you say. Moving downwards should pull the imaginary cord into the centre, and moving upwards will pull it out. I usually do a side-to-side test too - both sprockets should go in the same direction on those.

sn

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 21, 2012, 14:57
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Got both motors to work in correct orientation. Had to rewire the left one briefly but it works. From home point to bottom of the page the LStepper moves CW and the RStepper moves CCW to lower, and reverse for raising up. Almost at the end of completing buildup.
All that is remaining is:
*Measure machine width and height.
*Cut spot in gondola for servo motor.
*Add counterweights to cord

Image
Image

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 21, 2012, 20:06
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Looking very sharp!

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 23, 2012, 17:09
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Thanks sandy! This has been a enjoyable build so far. A quick question though. When you click render pixels in the controller does that start and initiate the drawing and can that drawing be paused if a low ink pen needs switching out and the drawing resume from the paused position and what angle is the servo swinging to lift the pen off of the page. The parallax servo I'm using is there standard limited rotation servo and it came with only the four way attachment so I plan on clipping the other three legs off since there isn't an alternative right now. Thanks for all your help and replies.

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 24, 2012, 08:26
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You can pause the command queue at any time, but if you reset or restart the board you'll need to do the whole calibration all over again. It's easy enough to pause it, raise the pen (use "#" or "~" - I can never remember which), switch out the pen and then lower it and unpause the queue again.

The servo I'm using is very very standard. It turns 90 degrees clockwise (looking down from the top) to raise the pen, and then counter-clockwise to lower the pen

This little video of it happening.

It's actually much easier just to try than it is to describe!

sn

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 24, 2012, 14:27
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Gotcha! I plan on incorporating the servo shortly after I have run a few drawings through and tested things out a little further. This is my first drawing and where im set at right now:

*Machine width-762mm
*Machine height-1194mm
*Page width-457mm
*Page height-610mm
*400 steps
*no change on rev.step.mm
*Grid size-27
*Sample area-37
*Variable square wabe
*Bright pixel-255
*Dark Pixel-0

Pen was a Pigma Micron 0.30mm black. Is there a way to render more detail with another setting. When i did standard square wave it looked like it was going to color the entire page. Thanks again for the help.
Image

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 24, 2012, 16:46
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Good work, looking quite fine.
It depends what you mean by detail - terminology is quite important here. I refer to the resolution as detail. Smaller grid size = more pixels = more detail.

But, as your pixel size gets smaller, then your dynamic range starts getting squeezed. For instance, a very tiny pixel that is going to be entirely filled in by two strokes of the pen can only express two levels of density. On the other hand, a very large pixel that requires 100 strokes before it's fully inked can express 100 different levels of density. This is the density range, or the dynamic range, or the expression depth.

So there is a sweet spot, where you tune your pixel size so that it is small enough that you are capturing the detail you need from your image, but it is large enough that the machine has room to express it with some fidelity.

Your bigger problem is that your waves have collapsed towards the lower half of the drawing - this effectively halves your dynamic range, because the machine is trying to draw two lines, but they're only being rendered as one.

This is because your pen tip is dragging behind your gondola movement, you'll probably have been able to see it when it was moving - the gondola pivoting around on the pen tip. That sometimes actually turns into some really nice looping patterns, but hard to control.

Bit of distortion too (bit top, narrow bottom) might indicate the home point is physically higher than the machine thinks it is.

sn

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 25, 2012, 15:15
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Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. My gondola is taking on a kind of swooping circular pattern and I think I will adjust that accordingly for the next drawing. Im trying to set the home point as accurately as possible but what you may be seeing from the drawings are areas that im taping off the paper to the board and then removing it post drawing. What do you think would be good settings to move on to from here. I have kept the grid size at 20, and the sample area at 22. These are the two images that I did last night. Trying to correct the previous issues slowly but surely. How did you render the two color images from the instructables. Were there changes in dark pixel and bright pixel section or what else went on. I think I used on the first one variable sized squarewave and in the second variable frequency square wave.

First one Self Portrait.
Second Best friend Tyler
Image
Image

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 25, 2012, 15:17
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For some reason the pictures do not look near as well as in person.

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 25, 2012, 16:34
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Photographing drawings is hard! They're quite indistinct - and I'd say for such small pixels you can make better use of your pen. There aren't any pixels which are fully shaded - solid. This is because you've got your pen width set to be bigger than your pen really is. Try knocking it down a bit, or set up, and do a pen width test to figure out what setting to put your pen width to.

The ones you're talking about on the instructable, which do you mean? The multicolour ones are done using a couple of different images, and the mask function of the controller ("pick mask colour" or something like that). You can see the current masked colour with the info overlay (press "i"). So for the penguin, I had one layer that was just the yellow parts, and all the rest was masked off with bright green, and drew that. Then a second layer that was just the red parts, and then a third that was just the black parts. Each time, use something like GIMP or photoshop to block out the detail I wanted to hide with an unusual colour.

Didn't use the bright/dark pixel theshold for those ones, but they are useful for that kind of masking.

Personally, I don't use a square wave pixel with any grid smaller than 40ish, because I think the dynamic range suffers too much (as well as taking forever), and if you do then use a very fine pen (as you are doing), and set the pen width carefully to get the maximum range in the pixel size you do have.

sn

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 26, 2012, 05:34
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Ive gone through and done a width test and then re-sent .30mm as a command and then imported the image and moved on from there. Im using a Pigma Micron .30mm on the one that is currently running with grid size set at 20 and sample area at 30. Your right about the photographs. Detail looks better naturally at 4ft away as opposed to 1ft away. The one I am referencing on the instructable is the one right next to Marilyn. It had a two tone red and green theme that looked really slick. Im going to keep at it as soon as I get another few pens as this one may fail mid drawing....

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 26, 2012, 14:40
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Got slightly better results on this one. Still not there. The pen at least did not run out like I thought. Going to try and increase the grid size and sample area some more and run some more through it and see what happens.

Sandy, when you do work from a photograph what pixel pattern are you using most of the time. I'll test pens again tonight before I send another print through and see if I can't get even better resolution. Here is the one from last night with the original photo for comparison.

CSE27USF
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Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 26, 2012, 14:44
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Photos
Image
Image

sandy
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sandy
Post Re: Almost there.
on: May 26, 2012, 18:01
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Hi, sample area is entirely "to taste". Bigger equals creates more blurred results, smaller creates more contrast between neighbouring pixels, so it's easy to come up with results that are jagged when representing small details like lines.

I think that last drawing looks pretty good. That's with scaled square, and it looks like you've set the pen size to be a bit more true? I really like the look of that pixel, and it gives a very good, half-tone style impression - newspapery. Quite good detail, probably better than the regular variable frequency square wave. At least, it's more representative than that the variable frequency one - I think it probably matches the eye's interpretation of density better.

I usually use the variable frequency one as my main pattern, because I enjoy seeing the pixel perimeters staked out in such a clear way.

sn

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